Welcome to The Gingerbread Bunny! I'm Sarah, a textile artist specialising in crochet and felt based in Wigan in the North-West of England.

On my blog, you can find my day-to-day craft adventures and tutorials.

You can find details of my work for sale and workshops on my website - www.thegingerbreadbunny.co.uk

Saturday, 10 May 2014

Sarah's Simple Crochet Socks

I've crocheted a few pairs of socks, some of them have fit well and others not so well.  When my improvers crochet students asked to learn how to crochet socks, I felt it was time to write up my sock pattern.  It is one which I have developed myself which works for me - hopefully it will work for you to!

Please feel free to share the pattern (if you think it is good) and please leave a comment if you spot any mistakes or think I should make any changes to it.  I'd also love to see any pictures of socks you make from my pattern.

Sarah's Simple Crochet Socks 


100g of yarn and corresponding hooks
(This is a guide – adjust hook sizes as necessary to suit your own tension)

Sock/4ply yarn
3.5mm and 3mm
4mm and 3.5mm
4.5mm and 4mm
5mm and 4.5mm

Stitch Markers – At least 1 that is different to the others

dc – double crochet (insert hook into stitch, yarn round hook, pull through stitch, yarn round hook, pull through loops on hook)
Edc – extended double crochet (insert hook into stitch, yarn round hook, pull through stitch, yarn round hook, pull through 1 loop on hook, yarn round hook, pull through all loops on hook)
dc blo – double crochet  in the back loop of the stitch.
sl st – slip stitch

Making the Pattern Work for You
Although this pattern is written for sock yarn, it is easy to adapt for any weight of yarn. Follow the instructions carefully for working the toe and decreasing for the heel.  Everything else is just the same!
Keep a note of how many rounds you have completed, length of different parts of the sock and any changes you make – this will be useful when making your second sock!

Ch 9

(This should be approximately 4cm long and roughly the distance from your big toe to your middle toe.  If you are using a different weight of yarn, just make sure that your chain is approximately 4cm long and make a note of how many stitches you made and how many rounds worked in the toe section)

    1) Sk first ch, dc into the back bump of each ch (8dc) Place marker in last dc worked.  Rotate work 180° so that you are working into the top of the stitch.  Work 1dc in each stitch (8dc) Place unique marker in last st.  (16dc in total)

Mark the last st on each side with different markers

    2) 2dc in next st, work 1 dc in each st to the last st before the next marker.  Work 2dc in this st, 1 dc in marked st (move marker up), 2dc in next st.  1dc in each st to the last st before unique marker.  2dc in this st, 1 dc in marked st (move marker up).

Repeat the increase round 7 more times (48 stitches) 

The toe should fit snugly over the toes.  You don’t want this to be too big!
Too big – work less rounds                            Too small – work more rounds


The foot is worked in a spiral – do not join at the end of each round.  Remove the markers from the toe and use 1 to mark the first st of the round.  Move this up with each round.

       3) Work 1 Edc into each stitch of the round

Repeat row 3 until the foot of your sock is the desired length.

It should reach just past the middle of the arch of your fit when stretched a little. 
(Mine measured 16cm from the tip of the toe for a UK size 7 shoe size)

Fold the foot flat so that it looks like the bottom of the foot.  Place markers where the foot folds on the left and right of your work.  

    4) Edc in each st until you reach the 1st marker (work in the marked stitch).  Turn


5)  Ch1, dc in each st to the opposite marker (work the marked st), turn
     6) Ch1, dc in each st until the last st (this will be your marked st), skip this st, turn

    Repeat row 6 until you have 9 stitches left (or the same number of stitches that you chained at the start of the sock)


    Use markers to mark the unworked st of the previous row.  Move this down as you work each row – this will help you to see the stitch as it can often seem too far away and get lost!

    7)   Turning Row:  ch1, dc in each st across, word 1dc in the side of the previous row and 1 dc in the unworked dc of the previous row.  Turn

Stitches worked in the side and unworked stitch from previous row

Repeat row 7 until you reach the last round before heel shaping began.

     The leg is worked in spiral rounds. Mark the first st of each round.  Move the marker up as you work.

   8)   Ch1, turn, work 1 Edc in each st round

    Repeat row 8 until leg is desired length.


   We are going to work in rows at 90° to our sock.
   Switch to your smaller hook (0.5mm smaller) – this will give you a slightly tighter cuff.

    9)    Ch11 (If you want a longer cuff then chain more stitches)


    10)     dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in each st until you reach the sock.  Sl st to the base st on the leg of your sock, sl st into the next st on the leg of your sock. (10dc) Turn

11)    dc blo in each st (10dc) , ch1, turn, dc blo (10 dc), sl st in the next st on the leg of your sock, sl st in next st on the leg of your sock.  

   Repeat row 11 round the top of your sock until you reach the start of your cuff.  Fasten off leaving a long tail. 

   Use long tail to join the start and finishing row of your cuff together with a whipstitch. Weave in all ends. 

    Make your second sock in the same way – wear and enjoy!

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